
Manzanilla is a dry, pale sherry aged only in the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which gives it a fresh, saline character.
Flor aging gives it the pale, saline, bone-dry character, and only wines aged the same way keep it. The salt is the part that is specific to the sea town it comes from; everything else in the family is broader and rounder.
Fino ages inland, where the flor runs thinner, and comes out a shade fuller and less saline. In a cocktail the swap works measure for measure — what goes is the sea-salt edge manzanilla is poured for.
There is an older version — pasada: around seven years, with the flor fading towards the end and oxidative depth joining the freshness.
It’s delicate and oxidizes quickly once opened. Keep it in the fridge and drink it within a few days.