
Pink port is Port made the way a rosé wine is: a few hours of skin contact with red grapes for the color, then fortification, then almost straight into the bottle.
It brings three things at once — Port strength, Port sweetness, and a pale pink color nothing else fortified has. No substitute holds all three, so the only real question is which of them the drink was built on.
Ruby matches the strength and comes close on the sweetness, and misses on one thing only: it pours deep red. In an opaque or dark stirred drink the color difference is negligible; in the pale serve that pink port was bought for, it defeats the purpose.
Still rosé wine
The color is right and the alcohol is not — about 12% against 19.5% — so a drink built on it lands noticeably lighter. Accept that, or bring it back up: roughly 20 ml of a 40% neutral or grape spirit per 60 ml of wine puts it at Port strength.
The style is barely older than the cocktail revival that took it up. Croft launched the first one in 2008 as Croft Pink, and at the outset the trade filed such wines with the light rubies. That did not last: the Douro authorities gave rosé a type of its own within a couple of years, and it now stands beside ruby, tawny and white as one of the four official colors of Port. What it tastes of is fruit and very little else: raspberry, cranberry, a little cherry, with the faint cream-soda roundness that fortification leaves behind. There is no nutty, oxidized depth in it, and a drink that wants one wants a tawny.
Treat it more like a rosé than like a Port. Fortification buys it a few weeks in the fridge, not the months a tawny will stand, and what fades first is exactly what you bought it for — the fresh fruit, and then the color.